EVO-ALL Car will not start keeps setting the Immobilzer

Question

HI,

I have installed the Evo-All unit into a 2004 Honda Accord

 

I am using the 3024 install guide Install #1 and Program #1

It programmed perfectly the first time.

The car will not start and tripped the immobilzer Honda has built into the car.

I was told to disconnect the battery & wait 10 minutes after shorting out the 2 main battery cables

Hook it all back up then program the Evo again.

The EVO will not reprogram and stalls when I turn the key tothe on position. it does not flash rapidly red or blue..

I performed the above and still no dice.

The immobilizer keeps kicking in.

Sorry the service number is not available as it is in the garage 1 mile away form this PC

Answer 1

Does the car start good with the key ?

Comments

Hello, no it does not. the immobilizer has kicked in and the car will not start at all.

I have removed the remote start and bypass.

The green key indicator is constantly flashing and I am done in a not good way.

 

Also, the Evo-All programmed perfectly the first time but has not sincethe first time programming.

Fortin has instructed me to do reprogram the Evo but this is not programming properly anymore.

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check to make sure you have the light blue/black of the EVO (in the 20-pin connector) wired to key data. Even if you accidentally use the light blue, the unit would still program correctly .This actually happens often, very often.  Same as this post : http://wirecolor.com/en/qa/37243/evo-all-programs-but-bypass-not-working

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I checked what you had suggested and the wiring was correct.

I had the car towed to the Honda dealer to reset the immobilizer last night.

According to the local Honda dealership, I have morethan likely fried the ECU.

Having carefully wired the unit into place, I am wondering WTF happened that would fry the ECU.

I had even disconnected the battery during the install to prevent any errant voltage spikes.

I had double checked all the connections before connecting the battery.

The EVO ALL programmed properly once and once only. After that it would not do the final flashing of the bypass.

Now I am looking at close to $1000 to fix my car & I don't have a remote start installed after all of this. I am very upset about this.

The Dealer is rechecking all connections and testing all powers & grounds back to the ECU and will confirm their diagnosis. I am hoping that they will find a lose connection.

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Verify your other remote start connections. The module programmed fine the first which tells that at this point the immobilizer was good. The problem looked to have occured when you tried your remote starter for the first time. This vehicle uses positive parking light make sure they are connected correctly and test ALL wires you connected to.

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At  this moment the remote start has been removed from the equation.

(I am doubtful it will be re-introduced to the system on this car).

Can you or anyone tell me if what you are suggesting would fry the ECU?

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Alot of dealers now are part changers. They plug in a computer, see an error, then change a part without actually doing an tests. 97% of the time, it's a fuse that's blown and not the ECU.  I would highly recommend bringing the vehicle to a remote starter retailer / installation shop if you want the remote starter installation checked / redone. Or, just make sure the dealer has an actual qualified remote starter installer. They can be actual employees, or a local shop that does there remote starter work on contract.

Can you or anyone tell me if what you are suggesting would fry the ECU?

as Mathieu said, "The module programmed fine the first time which tells you that at this point the immobilizer was good. The problem looked to have occured when you tried your remote starter for the first time." 

 

If the ECU is actually fried then it will most likely revolve around what's connected to what.

• So what happens exactly when a remote starter tries to start?
  • Remote Starter activates bypass
  • Remote Starter turns on parking lights (if connected)
  • Remote Starter turns the Accessories on
  • Remote Starter turns the Ignition on
  • Remote Starter drops Accessory and the its Starter output cranks the vehicle (most remote starter turn of parking lights during crank)
  • Remote Starter checks for tach either through the EVO-ALL or directly on the car (this depends where the tachometer of the remote starter is connected, if connected)
  • Remote Starter stops cranking the vehicle once it sees tach
  • Vehicle is normally started at this point
• Sounds like somewhere during the above process one of the connections shorted or was just connected at the wrong spot. All those circuits are also normally factory fused though to prevent burning electronics.

 

Remote starter installations may seem simple, but there are reasons why it is always recommended to have any aftermarket electronics, such as a remote starter, installed by a certified aftermarket electronics tech.

 

I personally have done plenty of Accords from 2000-2008, as I am sure Mathieu has and a few others on here. Personally, I have never seen a burned ECU. Only problem I remember is a dealer blaming a Check Engine on a remote starter installation when the actual problem was that the gas cap after the client filled up his tank was not properly closed.

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Thanks for your input. I am waiting still for an update.

The first call the service advisor told me that their immobilizer reset scanner would not communicate at all with the ECU therefore they concluded that my "hacking" into the harness fried the ECU.

I can't claim to be an expert installing remote start systems.

I have though been a certified automotive technican since 1984.

The wiring instructions were very clear for the installation.

I will post an update once I speak with the dealer again.

The only reason I had it towed there was to reset the immobilizer and get this car running again.

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I think all installers have heard stories of dealer said this, dealer said that. Best story that i heard happened to a friend, a dealer was pointing at a remote starter installation for ECU or BCM frying. The client had bought the car used and they wanted to check the remote starter isntallation. Joke was on them, there was no remote starter even isntalled in the car. There was a remote starter antenna on the windhsield, but it wasn't connected to anything. I am really not trying to look down on dealers here.

 

I may be very wrong here (don't take my word for it), but this does sound like a fuse blew somewhere (related to maybe the immobilizer module). If something went wrong, a scan tool would give you all the codes if any (there should be codes even the check engine light is not on). From there, don't be surprised if there's anything revolving around, no power/ignition to X unit.

 

2 quick fuses to check, from Alldatapro...

• Fuse 7, 10A - Under Dash Fuse Box - Hot ALL times. (this supplies constant power to the indicator light and the immobilizer, so i doubt this is blown since the light flashes at you) This fuse also supplies the main power for the fuel pump activated by Relay 2
• Fuse 19, 15A - Under Dash Fuse Box - Hot in ON or START - (this one seems to supply the immbolizer unit with ignition)